Establishments in Andalucía
Málaga, Málaga · La VictoriaTablao Zambra de la Alcazaba
An eighty-seat flamenco tablao on the hillside, with two shows a night and a resident group of singer, guitar and dancers. It is not a dinner show: you eat or graze in the courtyard first and then move into the room, lights down and no service during the dancing.
19:00–01:30 · Closed: Monday and Tuesday Abierto
Málaga, Málaga · El LimonarEl Espeto de Valeria
On the Limonar seafront, a few steps from Baños del Carmen, El Espeto de Valeria serves Málaga's seafood the way the city eats it: fish from the local auction, Huelva prawns, smooth clams and sardine skewers grilled on the boat by the door.
13:00–00:30 · Closed: Monday Cerrado
Sevilla, Sevilla · NerviónFreiduría Doña Manuela
A traditional fried-fish shop of the paper-cone kind, with whiting, baby cuttlefish and marinated dogfish fried to order in clean oil. You order by weight at the counter and eat it on the way home: there are no tables here and there never will be.
12:00–23:00 · Closed: Monday Cerrado
Marbella, Málaga · CentroRestaurante Aldaba del Mar
Fusion cooking between the Andalusian coast and Southeast Asia, with produce from the Marbella auction handled with technique and house ferments. A nine-course tasting menu and a short à la carte for those who prefer to choose.
13:00–23:45 Cerrado
Málaga, Málaga · HuelinVinoteca Vino y Cal
A neighbourhood wine bar with forty references open by the glass and a preservation system that lets a reserva be served without opening the whole bottle.
18:00–00:00 · Closed: Sunday Cerrado
Málaga, Málaga · El PerchelLa Vaca Rubia
Burgers from meat minced the same day, brioche buns from the bakery next door and hand-cut chips. Eight fixed on the menu and one of the month that the kitchen makes up.
13:00–00:30 Cerrado
Málaga, Málaga · Carretera de CádizMizu Sushi Málaga
A twelve-seat sushi counter on Avenida de Andalucía, working with fish from the Málaga auction rather than imported: the nigiri changes with whatever comes in that morning.
13:00–23:30 · Closed: Monday Cerrado
Málaga, Málaga · HuelinMesón Corral del Almirante
A Castilian mesón in Huelin, with a wood oven and the wine cellar in plain sight. What you order here is the milk-fed lamb or the suckling pig, which come out of the oven whole and are carved at the table, with Castilian soup or Burgos blood sausage to start.
12:30–23:30 · Closed: Tuesday Cerrado
Málaga, Málaga · SohoLa Huerta de Lucía
Vegetarian cooking built on Axarquía vegetables, with no attempt to imitate meat or fish: what is on is whatever the market gardens gave that week. House ferments, sourdough bread, and a grill used as much for fennel as for beetroot.
13:00–23:00 · Closed: Sunday and Monday Cerrado
Málaga, Málaga · SohoTaberna Casa Bermejo
A barrel-and-marble-counter tavern on Alameda de Colón, at the entrance to the Soho district. Local wine poured from the cask, tinned seafood, cured meats and spoon dishes that change every week with whatever the Atarazanas market has.
12:00–00:00 · Closed: Monday Cerrado
